You may not be familiar with Deciem, but you if you’re even slightly into skincare you’d know all about The Ordinary , and possibly even NIOD or Hylamide – all these skincare brands come under the umbrella of Deciem and share the same core values of science-backed formulas, no marketing jargon and affordable price tags. The difference between them is pretty much down to formulation and ingredients, with NIOD focusing on powerful chemical compounds with long-term results and The Ordinary being more mainstream with an approachable, something-for-everyone vibe.
All in all, they know what they’re doing and when it comes to skincare they continuously make leaps and bounds in innovation and technology while being fully transparent about everything from cost to research. So when the CEO came to Sydney a few weeks ago I know she’d be bringing with her some exciting news – and I wasn’t disappointed.
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Introducing copper peptides
“If a five-year-old was to cut their skin and a 95-year-old was to cut their skin, the five-year-old would heal much quicker and better, and copper peptides are responsible for that repairing,” explains Deciem’s CEO Nicola Kilner. “It’s all about the skin’s ability to repair itself and getting it to behave in a younger way – so when people ask about the results it’s hard to pinpoint because you just notice that everything from overall ageing to pigmentation to hydration to elasticity [has improved] all because the skin is just acting in it’s younger form. They promote the production of collagen and elastin and have also been studied to assist with the healing of the skin. The natural role of copper peptides includes the activation of a wide range of skin health functions, including healing, immune function, collagen synthesis, photo-damage, hyperpigmentation, and anti-inflammatory responses,” she says.
How does it work?
“They send a signal to the skin’s cells when applied topically to prompt the formation of new copper peptides and their function, putting the skin into a constant state of repair, whilst stimulating the production of collagen and elastin,” says Kilner. This hero ingredient draws copper from your body in to promote repair, but as we age and the peptides decline it’s harder for the body to utilise this ingredient for healing. “Topping up the levels of copper peptides in the skin will allow it to function more efficiently. All skin types benefit, as they encourage overall skin health. Younger skin will benefit both in the short and longer-term, as Copper Peptides will work to maintain the skin’s overall youthful condition,” she explains.
Although it’s not a new ingredient, theres Medik8 Firewall Patented Copper Antioxidant Energising Peptide Serum ($158, at Adore Beauty) and The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% ($48, at The Ordinary) which has been around for over a year, the way it functions has had a major first-of-its-kind upgrade. NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid (CAIL) 1% ($135, at Deciem), launching this week, uses a different copper peptide molecule, a unique patented complex and a long list of vitamins, amino acids and minerals with a strong focus on improving elasticity and volume in the skin – especially for hollow cheeks! “Our lab team says it’s one of the best ingredients that there is to have in skincare and we recommend it as the one ingredient for everyone to have in their skincare routine,” says Kilner.
Wait, why is it blue?
“The blue comes purely from the copper peptides, we use a high concentration and percentage to give it its natural colour. But because it’s such a good, expensive skincare ingredient you have to watch out because other brands use other ingredients to mimic the colour,” explains Kilner.